SOUQS OF DUBAI

Entrance to a souq

Signage - simple

Roof of a souq

Al Souq, a simple sign will lead you to the old market place in Bur Dubai on the Dubai creek. More signage that show ways are a fish icon leading to the Fish Souq and a necklace icon showing the way to the Gold Souq. 

A souq in old Dubai is a maze of alleys, traditional in style, rows of shops in narrow zig-zag cobbled pathways. The unique feature is the roof….an intricate crisscross lattice work of wooden beams with the rays of sun interplaying with pockets of shadows creating an interesting pattern on the footpaths. Some places have lanterns of coloured glass hanging on wooden pillars or just plain wood arrows showing the way to the interior parts of the souq.

What strikes one as soon as you are near these souqs is the divine smell of the incense, bakhoor that is traditionally burnt here. You will see various shop keepers who display their Mabkhara, a traditional clay burner, the heady smells wafting on spirals of smoke, lingering on your clothes and hair. An array of silks, intricately embroidered laces and nets with sequins shine among the stone studded velvets ….all vying for attention of shoppers. Colorful sheesha pipes, cashmere shawls, clothes, shoes, glass lanterns and traditional curios and knock- offs of watches and bags jostle with each other for display.

View from the Abra ride

Old building

View of the barajeel

View of the old traditional Emirati homes

A quick abra ride over the blue waters of the creek is another experience one should not miss while in this area. You join with people from all over the world trying their hand at this ride on these wooden abras, traders ferrying their wares across to the other side and people who use these water taxis to commute. The cries of the birds flying low vie with those of the traders in their traditional dhows (wooden boats, I will need another post to write about these amazing part of the Dubai-scape). Do this crossing in the night time and it gives you a twinkling horizon of lights on both shores and glimpses of the Dhows lit up for the cruises. The day time trip gives you a clear view of the traditional barajeel - the wind towers of the coral stone houses - peeking out from behind the markets among the new buildings that dot the shore. These were used to keep the buildings cool, an ancient version of central air conditioning, if we may call it so.

Walls of Corals with sand and Lime

Minar of a mosque

Some of these Emirati houses still are intact while some places have the coral walls (walls built with corals, lime and sand) standing forlorn. It’s always fascinating to see how ancient civilisations used local resources to the max with minimum transportation cost, which was the norm across the ancient world.  We also see the spires of mosques with their traditional blue tile work showing through and imposing Islamic style architecture. When seen up close, the intricate tile work, calligraphy and symmetrical patterns can be mesmerising.

Spices

Spice souq

Reach the Spice Souq that lends a slightly different experience. Aroma of spices predominate, as would in a spice market. Rows and rows of dried spices, pods, dried fruits and nuts, dried flowers, saffron and herbs used in traditional preparations, bags-full of coloured bahkoor, resins, rocks of salts, frankincense and much more make for a fabulous display of colors, textures and smells. The Grand Souq and the Spice Souq have been selling wares, spices and gold for years now in the same narrow alleys and old shops with their wooden doors and run by the same family over generations. Shopkeepers will chat with you, telling you the names and uses of most of their wares. Do not forget to bargain as this is expected of anyone who comes to shop here; it’s a kind of social interaction.

A shop in the
Gold Souq 

Walk further to reach the Gold Souq with its glittering wares that dazzle the eye! The sheer stocks and size would make one reel in shock. It’s a shopper’s paradise if that is what pleases you. Here everything that glitters IS gold!! There are quaint benches too in the souq under the lattice wooden beamed roof to sit and see the world hustle by.

Minars at night

The Fish Souq is one place that might want you to wrinkle your nose, though comparing it with some other parts of the world, its quite non-fishy (as far as smells go). The range and quality of fish that can be bought here is amazing to say the least.

The Souqs of old Dubai situated on both sides of the creek – Deira and Bur (old) Dubai areas are the origins of trade and market place in these lands, of fishing and pearl diving (the original trade of this area). It is undoubtedly the charm of the souqs that pull people to at least witness it as onlookers if not participate in its daily life. No visit to Dubai is complete without a visit to its souqs.